Since purchasing the property in 1999 David and Tanya Bryant have meticulously set about developing their small Yarra Valley vineyard, and the resulting wines made from it, into a powerhouse of European classical style. The early wines were made by Phillip Jones of Bass Phillip fame, however the more recent wines were made by David, having undertaking his apprenticeship with the big guy. Current production is under 1,000 cases per annum which surely gives the Bryants leave to call themselves “micro-boutique”.
If I’m right, the vineyard produces four levels of quality – Village, Estate, Premium and Reserve. The Village wines come from newer plantings since 2000, while the higher end use the fruit from the original 1970 plantings. Tonight’s wine is under the Estate label and it looks a little like this..
A lively red brick colour, slight browning around the rim. The first whiff and you get a sense for the European style these guys are chasing. It looks classic claret, and the word is ‘black’. Black tar, black olive and blackcurrant. To redress this dark fixation I’ll note a little white pepper on the nose and some juicy redcurrant. Pencilly oak hangs in the background and the wine opens further to reveal some herb and florals – fresh-cut sage, rosebush, rosemary jelly. It’s quite seductive really. You know it’s not a big wine, but all on the nose appears complex and complete. So far, so good.
The palate is soft and plush, plummy. There’s savoury olive again and some rare lamb in its juices. The sweet/savoury balance is finely tuned. Again, old-fashioned claret springs to mind. The wine has the appearance of being quite simple, with medium weight and length, but its seductive powers lie in the flavours and balance. Blackcurrant dominates, cedary oak, fresh herb, silky tannin. A wine of texture and class.
Vibe
It’s good. I could not find fault with this wine – it’s no orgiastic, hedonistic mind-blower, but there’s a restrained elegance and sophistication that really appeals. We dusted it off with some home-made pizzas and it went down a treat. I guzzled it.
Value: $37 at the time of purchase. It’s up there, and I know my notes are all positive, but I think it’s probably a bit on the high side.
Tasted: May 2011
Closure: Cork (an excellent example)
Tech-head
Producer: Hillcrest Vineyard – www.hillcrestvineyard.com.au – Established in 1970, purchased by the Bryants in 1999. Now farmed as organic and yields are between one and three tonnes per acre.
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria.
Site: High elevation, grey gravel over yellow-grey loam. The vineyard is reportedly unirrigated.
Vintage: Good spring rains followed by a warm summer and mild Autumn. A very good year with optimum hang time and ripeness.
I usually avoid cutting-edge-hip-flavour-of-the-moment winemakers. No real reason. It’s the same with cutting-edge-hip-flavour-of-the-moment bands. The more the band is hyped, the less interested I am. But occasionally, very occasionally, the latest hot band will either sneak up or be thrust upon me, and in an unguarded moment I’ll be reluctantly impressed and revel in the talent, originality and style of said hyped band. It can happen with wine too.
But first, let’s look at the detail. A very light brick red colour greets, even slightly browning – deceptive as it turns out. Initial hit of fairy floss and mallow, but quickly turns to savoury, meaty aromas. To be precise, rare lamb resting in its juices; a touch of rosemary, bay leaf, basil and black olive. Tomato stalky, yes, tomato saucy, yes. Smoky bacon and stuffed red pepper... yes. There’s still a lovely fragrant bouquet of perfume and sweet redcurrant fighting against all the savoury elements, and this aspect was highlighted as we tucked into our pork chops and apple sauce.
The palate is even from start to finish; texturally fine, creamy... flavours of redcurrant, strawberry, spicy orange rind, plum and maraschino cherry – perhaps a little stalkiness – but essentially displaying the purist of pure pinosity. With the food the sweetness was emphasised further, yet still retaining the attractive meaty, gamey savouriness of the pre-dinner tasting. There was tight acid, there was restraint, and there was power.
Vibe
This is good. It is equal parts simple, stylish and sexy. Seductive and supple. How can I explain? It shows no outward sign of greatness; it doesn’t smack you immediately in the face; it’s not the hottest-looking girl in the room – it’s the wine that gets under your guard slowly until it holds your complete attention – it’s intelligent, charming and resourceful. It's got 'it'. And it won me.
Value: Fifty five big buckeroos will get you this wine. Wow, it’s up there. I guess I’ll just say it’s a worthy wine if you think $55 is not a lot of money.
Tasted: April 2011
Closure: Screwcap
Tech-head
Producer: Mac Forbes – www.macforbes.com – one of the newish cultish producers crossing this fair land.
Region: Woori Yallock, south-eastern Yarra Valley, Victoria.
Vintage: Early budburst, wet December, warm vintage culminating in a heatwave in March, but most of the pinot was already picked by then. A good year despite challenges.
