I usually avoid cutting-edge-hip-flavour-of-the-moment winemakers. No real reason. It’s the same with cutting-edge-hip-flavour-of-the-moment bands. The more the band is hyped, the less interested I am. But occasionally, very occasionally, the latest hot band will either sneak up or be thrust upon me, and in an unguarded moment I’ll be reluctantly impressed and revel in the talent, originality and style of said hyped band. It can happen with wine too.
But first, let’s look at the detail. A very light brick red colour greets, even slightly browning – deceptive as it turns out. Initial hit of fairy floss and mallow, but quickly turns to savoury, meaty aromas. To be precise, rare lamb resting in its juices; a touch of rosemary, bay leaf, basil and black olive. Tomato stalky, yes, tomato saucy, yes. Smoky bacon and stuffed red pepper... yes. There’s still a lovely fragrant bouquet of perfume and sweet redcurrant fighting against all the savoury elements, and this aspect was highlighted as we tucked into our pork chops and apple sauce.
The palate is even from start to finish; texturally fine, creamy... flavours of redcurrant, strawberry, spicy orange rind, plum and maraschino cherry – perhaps a little stalkiness – but essentially displaying the purist of pure pinosity. With the food the sweetness was emphasised further, yet still retaining the attractive meaty, gamey savouriness of the pre-dinner tasting. There was tight acid, there was restraint, and there was power.
Vibe
This is good. It is equal parts simple, stylish and sexy. Seductive and supple. How can I explain? It shows no outward sign of greatness; it doesn’t smack you immediately in the face; it’s not the hottest-looking girl in the room – it’s the wine that gets under your guard slowly until it holds your complete attention – it’s intelligent, charming and resourceful. It's got 'it'. And it won me.
Value: Fifty five big buckeroos will get you this wine. Wow, it’s up there. I guess I’ll just say it’s a worthy wine if you think $55 is not a lot of money.
Tasted: April 2011
Closure: Screwcap
Tech-head
Producer: Mac Forbes – www.macforbes.com – one of the newish cultish producers crossing this fair land.
Region: Woori Yallock, south-eastern Yarra Valley, Victoria.
Vintage: Early budburst, wet December, warm vintage culminating in a heatwave in March, but most of the pinot was already picked by then. A good year despite challenges.
The colour is a light garnet, dull-ish - you know from the outset this wine isn’t gonna be big. A touch of VA greets on opening, un-worryingly. A pencilly nose gives way to fruit in the redcurrant and blueberry spectrum, with typical strawberries and cream. It’s a clean (VA aside), fresh, ruby-red style – cedary, floral/spicy, but with little in the way gamey/earth notes of fuller styles.
As expected, the palate is light-ish, soft and simple with red-fruits dominating; sweetish mid-palate with spicy notes, rosewater, bay leaf, and tapers away on the finish. All the usual measures are in good shape: acid balanced to fruit-weight balanced to oak treatment. I have to remember this is only $20 so I need to loosen the pinot-wanker-strings a bit. And so I do.
OK, add a little rare beef fillet soaked in soy/ginger/garlic/chili and the wine gives a little more. The nose looks sweeter and the palate texture broadens and gives the impression of more weight. The floral aromatics kick up a gear and there’s even a few foresty notes poking around. The base flavours also lift and give a new richness to the whole shebang, even if moderately. Texture is pretty slick. A food wine.
Vibe
Jeni Port of The Age rated this wine in her best for 2010 – albeit for Best Red Under #20. Weeeell... these ratings are always difficult and the trail marked ‘best wines of the year’ lays strewn with the carcasses of wines that simply don’t stack up. Soooo... with a pinch of salt and a shake of pepper. Honestly? I think it’s a pretty tidy wine. It’s probably more than tidy for $20. Pinot at $20 is a tough category and this one nails all the hard bits and comes through smiling. Not grinning, smiling. I’m OK with it. I’m sure they are too. (Note: 2nd night in and I think it delivers a little more. Perhaps worth a decanter, if you’re so inclined).
Value: Cellar door price is $20. As above, it’s hard to do this style well for that price. Easy with Cab and Shiraz, but Pinot is an unforgiving bugger. So, I call it good value.
Tasted: January 2011
Closure: Screwcap
Tech-head
Producer: Josef Chromy – www.josefchromy.com.au
Region: Tamar Valley, Tasmania – 10 mins south of Launceston at Relbia. A beautiful spot. Go visit.
Vintage: An average year in the Tamar – temperature swings and a cool flowering season didn’t help the cause, although they managed to avoid the frosts experienced in the south. A bit of disease pressure in parts but all up an OK year and some of the better producers got it right.
